May 2 - May 26, 1964
John and Cynthia in Tahiti
Photographed by John Howard
After the failure of having a peaceful vacation (I'm an American; British holiday is American vacation) in Ireland, John, Cynthia, George Harrison, and Pattie Boyd decided a tropical island is the way to go. Paul McCartney, Jane Asher, Ringo Starr, and Maureen Cox went to the Virgin Islands. For this trip, they were all given undercover last names that were similar to theirs while the Beatles exchanged their passports… odd, I know, but they were said to look alike, couldn't tell them apart.
John and Cynthia were Mr. and Mrs. Leslie
George was Mr. Hargreaves (his father's middle name)
Pattie was Ms. Bond
Paul was Mr. Manning
Ringo was Mr. Stone
Jane was Ms. Ashcroft
Maureen was Ms. Cockcroft
John and Cynthia boarding a flight to Tahiti in Honolulu on May 4, 1964
John, Cynthia, George, and Pattie had a long flight on May 2nd: London to Amsterdam to Vancouver to Honolulu, they were obviously tired, jetlagged, and now had to deal with fans yelling their names for a few days while staying at Royal Hawaiian Hotel while waiting for a flight to Tahiti. According to George, a disc jockey outed their stay. According to Cynthia's book A Twist of Lennon, while in Hawaii, John McDermott (hotel's public relations and lawyer) took pity on the isolated trapped foursome and invited them to his home in Kailua for sought-after privacy and a steak dinner. The lawyer's home was guarded by police to protect them. On their final night in Hawaii, John, Cynthia, George, and Pattie had dinner in their hotel room. On May 4th, they checked out of the hotel and made their way to Tahiti.
"After shooting A Hard Day's Night, George and I went with John and Cynthia Lennon to sail around the islands of Bora Bora, Moorea, Huahine, and Tahiti."
Pattie Boyd, 2014
"In 1964, we seemed to fit a week into every day. In May, John and Cynthia and Pattie and I went on holiday. By now we were so famous that we couldn't get on aeroplane without everyone knowing where we were going."
George Harrison
“I thought, ‘I’d love to have a baby,’ but nothing seemed to be happening. I put it off because we were young and exciting things were going on. For example, Brian Epstein said, ‘I’ve booked you a holiday in Tahiti. So John and Cynthia and George and I went. It was so exotic. Everything was organised; I don’t ever remember holding a passport but there must have been one somewhere. It was an extraordinary life. Taxis were paid; the car was filled; I didn’t see any bills at all. I lived this amazing life, nothing practical.”
Pattie Boyd, 2018
Pattie, George, an unidentified gentleman, Graham Rowe, and Cynthia while sightseeing in Tahiti
"'How would you like to work for three weeks as an interpreter on the charter yacht?' shouted the Frenchman above the Saturday night clamor of infamous Quinn’s Bar in Tahiti. 'Sounds interesting.' I yelled back. 'See the captain of the Maylis in the morning,' he shouted, disappearing into the sea of revellers. Who he was, or why he asked me, I’ll never know, but I turned up next morning to see the captain of the the Maylis. That chance meeting proved to be the start of an extraordinary three weeks for me. English-born myself, and living in Canada for ten years (latterly in Winnipeg), I never dreamed that my vacation trip to Tahiti would include an adventure like this. I boarded the Maylis, a 60-foot ketch hired for about £60 per day, the next morning and the Polynesian captain confirmed that an interpreter was needed on board for the duration of a three-week charter by four English people arriving the next day. He and his crew spoke only French and Tahitian. My answers were positive as to whether I had sailed before, and if I would lend a hand with the cooking. Thus I was hired for the trip. Armed with flower leis and a piece of paper bearing the names of Mr. and Mrs. Leslie and Mr. and Mrs. Hargreaves, I was at the airport at 6:30 p.m. the next day to meet our guests. 'Hey,' someone called to me just after the plane landed, 'two of the Beatles are coming in!' Several photographers stood around impatiently, and before long two tousle-headed young men accompanied by two very blonde and very pale complexioned girls, appeared among the disembarking passengers. Too bad I didn’t bring my camera, I mused, recognising them as two of the Beatles. What I had not heard, though, was that they were travelling under assumed names, and it was some 20 minutes later that I discovered with amazement that the fictional Mr. and Mrs. Leslie and Hargreaves for whom I was searching were in fact Mr. and Mrs. John Lennon and George Harrison and his girlfriend Pattie Boyd. By that time they were being checked by customs officials who eventually confiscated 50 rolls of film as they had more than the permitted quota. I got through the small crowd, introduced myself to Cynthia Lennon and a nervous Pattie Boyd, and helped them through customs. John and George were excited and friendly. Cynthia and Pattie were quiet, very blonde and pale. The two Beatles were impatient to leave the busy airport, 'Let’s get out of here,' said a harrassed John, 'I think they knew we were coming.' So we all squeezed together into an old taxi and went directly to the Maylis anchored at the Papeete wharf. 'Flaming Customs lot have grabbed fifty rolls or our film,' groaned George. 'We carry it halfway round the world and then they lift it just because we’ve a bit more than our quota.' We got to the jetty where the Maylis was moored, and it turned out it was not exactly the kind of boat they had expected to find. They had imagined something larger, more modern, more luxurious, and certainly without sails. I could see the disappointment on their faces. Other than the fact that a boat was available for charter, no other pertinent facts had been available in England, John told me. Actually at this point there was no other choice but to board her, and the visitors took it all in stride. I showed them the plans for our trip and they went to bed early, tired from their flight in from Hawaii - and John was developing a cold. The Tuamotu islands north east of Tahiti had been tentatively chosen for the cruise, as a quiet off-the-beaten-track destination, requested by John and George. The Tuamotus, certainly offer the tranquillity and solitude desired, but, at the same time such commodities as fresh water, ice, milk, vegetables and fresh meat would be difficult, or impossible, to obtain; so it was decided to change the voyage to Les Isles sous le Vent, the Windless Islands, which lie to the northwest of Tahiti; and, like Tahiti are mountainous islands with silver sands, generously blessed with fresh produce. We would leave the following day for Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora, stopping at Tahiti’s sister island, Moorea, en route. I knew these islands well for what they had to offer, as I had spent much time there three years previously on a trip. With that decision, we called it a day."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
George, Pattie, and Cynthia on the Maylis yacht in Tahiti, May of 1964
"We picked a spot where we wouldn't be recognized. We went sailing in the Polynesian Islands, got suntanned, went swimming, diving, water skiing, and got rested."
George Harrison, 1964
Cynthia mentioned in A Twist of Lennon that during the trek to their yacht they were cold, tired, and were in company of cockroaches. It was around midnight, raining, and crankiness when they finally got to their yacht. Their yacht wasn't as luxurious as their mental dreams thought. It was cramped, it used to be for fishing, and recently received a paint job which still smelled. Cynthia got a hat while in Hawaii and during the treacherous boat ride to the yacht, Cynthia was feeling sick and used her hat to throw up in. She did clean it out... but it eventually flew away. Must’ve been cursed, or something as that beloved hat had bad luck!
"We had to stay in Honolulu for a couple of days awaiting the connection to Tahiti, so to get away from Waikiki we drove up to the north of the island to a beach where no one knew us. Then we flew to Tahiti, and at Papeete was waiting the sailing boat that we'd booked. We went to a couple of shops there, where John and I bought cool looking dark green oilskin macs. We slept on the boat that night and started sailing first thing the next morning- but as soon as we were out of the harbour we got into a really rough channel of water. We had to keep the engine going, and the boat had just been painted so it stunk of diesel and paint. We couldn't go below because of the fumes, so we lay holding on to the deck. Soon, Cynthia and I were feeling sick and puked everywhere. The day seemed long, but eventually, as the sun was setting, we anchored at the next island. We were so ill that we just got into our bunks and went to sleep. The next morning I woke and looked out of the porthole. It was fantastic. At that time we'd hardly been anywhere out of England, and never to anywhere that was tropical. It was incredible, a smooth lagoon with an island in the background with mountains and coconut palms. Five or six Tahitians were paddling an outrigger canoe, gliding across the calm sea. It blissed me out."
George Harrison
"The following morning was hot and oppressive and threatened rain. I got up early and we all had breakfast at Vaima’s restaurant in town and went shopping for provisions and other articles such as rain jackets, straw hats, suntan lotion, swim fins, two guitars and swimming trunks for John and some tablets for his cold. In spite of the fact that their photos and story were in the morning paper, very little attention was paid to the Beatles, who were thankful to be left in comparative peace for a change. The captain, Papi, and crew of the chartered yacht had never heard of the Beatles before, and thought of them as just another charter party. Tahiti is noted for its indifference to visiting celebrities, and saw no cause to change on account of the Beatles. A few Chinese seamstresses peered shyly out at them from the back of a shop, but most people paid them no more attention than the average tourist. We set sail from Papeete at 2:30 that afternoon in torrential rain ('This is the Sunny South Seas!' said John), everyone, nevertheless, in good spirits. John busied himself nailing a picture of his young son Julian above his bunk. 'Took it meself,' he said proudly."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
Sorry to interrupt, but… John carried a picture of Julian that he took around with him while traveling. And if John was going to be in the same spot for several days, the picture gets nailed to the wall. Awwwwwww! Okay, now I am wondering what picture and where is it today? Did John carry Julian's picture with him always? Is it in New York? I better stop and let Graham continue his story.
"Cynthia relaxed with a magazine. George and Pattie had been well and truly bitten by the love bug. They seemed to spend every spare moment hand-in-hand, gazing deep into each other’s eyes. Outside the protective reef, however, the seas were heavy and the Maylis pitched and rolled while the previous high spirits began to fall. George managed one last cheerful gag - 'The Mersey ferry was never like this'. Then silence as the first pains of sea-sickness creased up on him. We were still running under engine power and the smell of the smoke from the freshly painted engine, combined with the high seas, quickly got the better of George, who was violently sick. He turned green and looked wretched. I felt truly sorry for him. Next came Cyn and Pattie, who were trying to rest below in their cabin - but were only getting rolled about. The nauseous fumes from the smoking engines permeated the cabins though and caused Cynthia to be sick also. After one and half hours of misery George and Cyn wanted to turn back and start again under kinder conditions, but were persuaded by John, Pattie and the crew to continue on to Tahiti’s sister island, Moorea, as we were almost halfway there - less than two hours ahead. John was completely unruffled by the weather and stayed on deck throughout the crossing to Moorea, thoroughly enjoying himself, roaring, 'The boy stood on the burning deck,' 'Ship ahoy,' 'Land ho,' and any other nautical expression that came into his head. Pattie, too, took everything in her stride, though not as boisterously. John spotted Titiri, one of the crew members who had long dark hair and sideburns, and immediately christened him “Elvis.” The name stuck throughout the trip, much to Titiri’s delight. We reached the sanctuary of a reef-protected lagoon in Moorea about 6 p.m., had supper, with the exception of George who was still under the weather, and whiled away the remainder of the evening strumming guitars and singing. Pattie did her best to comfort George."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
"We had to go through Honolulu to get to Tahiti and the outer islands. In Tahiti we were OK, we escaped there. Once we were on the boat, no one got near us- except one fella from Sydney who we didn't speak to. He swam with us, saying, 'Can I come on your boat?' We said, 'no', and he had to swim miles back!"
John, 1964
During the vacation, John was working on his second book, A Spaniard in the Works, with George helping him out. The Singularge Experience of Miss Anne Duffield was written in Tahiti. I'm sure some songs were written there as well- both John and George brought their acoustic guitars.
"I remember all of us sitting around on the boat as George and John played their guitars while we got the deepest tans. It was wonderful sailing around the islands. We would swim ashore and navigate our way through a maze of coral reefs before having lunch, which consisted of fresh fish speared by our boatmen. The boys would make up silly stories to film on camera, while Cynthia and I gathered up palm fronds and coconut shells. And when it was time to leave, a gang of dolphins appeared at either side of the boat to help guide us out of the coral reefs. Today, whenever I see Gauguin's painting, it takes me right back to our time in Tahiti- the people, the colors, and the landscape."
Pattie Boyd, 2014
Cynthia, John, Pattie, and George relaxing in their boat while in Tahiti
"As was to be the case for the rest of the voyage, John was first up in the morning, around 7 a.m. He was closely followed by the others who gazed with awe at the beauty of the terrain surrounding us. The spectacle that awaited them that first morning in Moorea was truly breathtaking. The sun was shining and the verdant mountains towered over the palm-fringed lagoon at the end of which was a tiny village. The water was an unbelievable blue, and children played on the golden beach. Mother Nature was putting on her finest show for the Beatles. John and George took pictures all morning and after lunch we sailed to Maharepa on the other side of the island, where the equally beautiful lagoon offered better coral gardens and skin diving. 'This is the sort of sea I can face,' said George as the Maylis glided into the lazy blue waters. 'The water’s fab,' yelled George, who could not wait for the anchor to be dropped before leaping in. Face masks and flippers were donned, and after a little practice all four used breathing snorkels like pros, lost in the magnificent underwater wonderland. For the next few hours George busies himself hauling out a weird collection of tropical fish for inspection of anyone he can collar. Among the specimens he grabs is a small octopus. 'Look at that! Down there there’s a hundred suckers born every minute,' cracks John. While George and Pattie stayed near the boat that afternoon happily swimming, John, Cyn, and I made use of the local transportation, le truck, to visit the Chinese store in the village of Pao Pao. The rickety old vehicle went only about 5 mph. due to the potholes in the road after the recent rain, but we saw the magnificence of Pao Pao bay and savored the Chinaman’s homemade ice-cream, which was excellent. Rather typically for French Polynesia, the truck refused to start for our return trip, so while half the village turned out laughingly to push the tired old vehicle to our destination - John conducted them like an orchestra leader! On returning to the Maylis, John was furious when he spotted an Australian reporter who had chartered a boat from Papeete to interview the Beatles. This is precisely what they had travelled half-way around the world to escape. Even in the solitude of the South Pacific the Beatles were not entirely able to avoid the newsmen and photographers from the outside world. On two occasions these appeared - but both left empty handed because of the Beatles insistence on privacy during their holiday. It was about this time that John and George discovered that the Maylis carried cases and cases of Scotch in its hold because the last charter party had been a group of American men on a fishing trip. 'But what’s it all for?' George asked. 'We couldn’t possibly drink it all you know.' I assured them that the Scotch was safer than most of the water we would get, so it was there to prevent the stomach trouble that we islanders politely call tourista. John quipped, 'We can always use the Scotch - there’s enough to bathe in.' 'And put it on our cornflakes!' George added. I must say the Beatles throughly enjoyed everything they did - whether it was water skiing, fishing, swimming, shooting pictures or just lazing about. They called everything fab or gear, and demonstrated marvelous, infectious humor throughout the trip. They never complained about their cramped quarters. Living in close contact was unavoidable on the yacht but it didn’t spoil the Beatles charm. It was all a laugh."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
John and Cynthia on the boat in Tahiti, 1964
Photographed by George
"One day early in the voyage, John was staring over the side at the fish swimming past the yacht. Suddenly he got up and said in his Liverpool accent, 'Hurry George! I see a dirty big fish and he’s wearing sunglasses!' George rushed over, seriously perused the clear sea below, rose and solemnly said, 'John, me lad, that ugly fish is you. It’s your reflection.' John frowned archly and demurred, 'So it is.' John has a really nimble mind and you would think Cynthia would be used to it, but sometimes she just couldn’t stop laughing. The second morning John is first out of bed - hale and hearty, 'Let me get at that sun, I’ll merder it,' he yells whistling the suntan lotion about like sea spray. In fact it was the sun that did the murdering, and for the next couple of days John suffers from pretty severe sunburn. There’s no tomorrow in Tahiti, there’s no yesterday - everything is the present moment, and John and George loved it. They thought it was fantastic the way they could just do nothing, and when I suggested a climb to an ancient burial cave in the mountains on Moorea they thought I was crazy - they were there to relax! Another day was spent in Moorea swimming, fishing and sunbathing. We went spear fishing for our supper that last afternoon in Moorea. John had little or no luck, and declared that George’s fish looked positively poisonous, but “Elvis” saved the day by spearing fresh fish in the lagoon. During the evening, after the meal of Titiri’s catch we sailed for the island of Huahine 90 miles away. George was reluctant to leave, envisioning a repeat performance of the first day at sea. 'It’s great here. You go ahead - I’ll stay here!' he said half seriously, but was won over by the captain’s assurance that the sea would be calm. The sanctuary of a reef-protected lagoon was gained early that evening, and it was there that we ate and spent the night."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
"Cynthia and Pattie had long black wigs which they wore as disguises. John and I put their wigs on, and our oilskin macs, and made a little 8mm film about natives on an island with a missionary (John) who comes out of the ocean to convert them."
George Harrison
"We spent over a day at Huahine, which is one of the quietest, least spoiled island of the group. The highlight was John and George dressing up in Cynthia and Pattie’s wigs and, clad in rain-jackets and straw hats, going ashore with Pua, the other crew member, to clown around with their 8 mm. movie cameras. They planned to make a crazy little movie to take home and show their friends. John, of course, wrote the script. It was all about the downfall of a missionary who made a miraculous arrival on a coral island to convert the heathens. The missionary (John) overawed the natives by wading out of the sea wearing four pairs of sunglasses. But soon he was in all kinds of trouble, and the final scene was to show his embarrassing departure in flight from the indignant islanders (John and George). In the opening shot you see John emerging from the sea wearing a shirt, tie, shorts, hat and about five pairs of sunglasses. Next, you see George and John (he changes outfits) dressed as native girls, climbing down from a coconut tree - with the help of a ladder! Camera pans to George chasing John (he is the creature from the sea again!) along the beach into a hut. There is a close-up of John in the hut saying prayers (for help, I guess). The final and fade-out shot is of the two “girls” laughing, picking up the ladder and walking off into the sunset - carrying it. It’s just plain ridiculous, of course, but it was hilarious. The natives were all in stitches. Pua and the Tahitian crew just roared with laughter and thought it was the funniest thing since Charlie Chaplin, whose movies are still shown in the islands."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
Unfortunately, no one knows where the film went. I think George may be the one who had it- well, his widow Olivia. It could be somewhere in Friar Park. It's a huge house, too.
Cynthia, John, George, and Pattie on the beach in Tahiti
Artwork by Cynthia, 1978
Meanwhile, George and Pattie were in the early days of their relationship, impressing and learning more about one another. George raved on and on to John on how Pattie looked, especially resembling Brigitte Bardot. At first, John got a good kick out of George's giddiness until it got boring, after all John was an old married man. This was before the internet and cell phones; they entertained themselves by suntanning on the beach, swimming, walked, talked, shopped, playing board games, making love, and cuddling.
"Saturday May 9, saw us leave Huahine for Raiatea, clearly visible some 30 miles away. Raiatea’s port of Uturoa is the second largest town in French Polynesia, after Papeete, and would be a logical place to replenish supplies and take aboard more ice. While this was being done John, Cynthia, George and Pattie looked over the rather depressing town, took a few photographs, and tried the local ice-cream. Their favorite drink was island-made, called Orangina, and cases were taken aboard at each port. Though Saturday night is Uturoa’s biggest night of the week, neither John nor George was feeling adventurous enough to participate, and stayed on the boat instead. The majority of men who go to sea usually cannot resist the temptation to neglect the daily chore of shaving, and the Beatles proved no exception; until Sunday that is (May 10). Just as they were beginning to get proud of their new growth, a horrible thought struck them. It was then that John exclaimed 'My face won’t get tanned!' and out came the hot water and razor. 'We’ll only have half a tan,' says George as he decided to follow suit. While these major operations were being performed I took Pattie Boyd to the local hospital for treatment of a sty that had formed on her eye lid. That morning Pattie came aboard with a terrible tummy ache. She’d been in the sun all day. I told her to rest in the shade, but then she broke into a cold sweat and had considerable pain - enough to make her cry, and she is quite a good sport and brave little girl. We rushed her off to the infirmary and the doctor diagnosed that she had a big overdose of the sun. She was given some pills and some cream for her swollen eyes, and was quite all right the next day."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
In her book Wonderful Tonight, Pattie wrote about the sty. She had it in a previous vacation in Ireland and it returned again- John called it the holiday sty. According to Cynthia's book A Twist of Lennon, the Cook's specialty food seemed to have been potatoes, made in every way possible.
"Later that day we left the somewhat gloomy Uturoa and went to the island of Tahaa. On the whole, the Beatles were interested in trying any new dishes, but Cyn’s favorite was a chip butty, which was a fried potato sandwich! The helping hand I had agreed to give with the cooking at the outset of the trip proved to be the understatement of the year. I was in fact the ship’s cook as well as interpreter, and was occupied fully in putting to use all my culinary wizardry gained from eight years of batching it. Sometimes I asked for advice from Cyn, who, after all, is a wife and mother. Cooking facilities on the Maylis left much to be desired, so I was pleased when, after tasting the first chips I cooked for her, she exclaimed with delight that they were 'just like Mum’s.' It made everything worthwhile. One day I even prepared the Tahitian dish of poisson cru, which is raw fish marinated in lime juice. My biggest mistake was in announcing what I was serving, for appetites suddenly waned and dinner came out of a can for the Beatles that night, while the crew and I ate the poisson cru."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
Pattie, John, and Cynthia relaxing in Tahiti, 1964
Photographed by George
"Five days were spent at quiet anchorages at Tahaa which, like Huahine, remains an unspoiled island. Tahaa offered the best skin diving and fishing so far. George became quite proficient with the speargun, while John became proficient at getting sunburned. Cynthia and John always wore sunglasses (he even shaved with his dark glasses on). These five days were punctuated by a visit to the town of Tiva for fresh bread and water, where we were met at the wharf by an Italian press photographer. Objecting to this invasion of their privacy, the Beatles refused to show themselves above deck and the photographer left, mission unaccomplished. The last two days at Tahaa and the subsequent two days were dull and rainy and John worked on composing a new song, 'To pay for the trip,' he said. On we sailed to Bora Bora, rising out of the ocean 30 miles away like Michener’s Bali Hai, and considered by many to be the world’s loveliest island. On the way porpoises played around the bow of the Maylis and we hooked a large sailfish on the trolling line, only to have it break the 300 lb. test line as though it was thread. Bora Bora’s magnificent twin peaks overlook impossibly blue lagoons, while the protecting reef against which the mighty Pacific hurls itself is dotted with small coral islands, known as motus, with dazzling beaches. The highlight of the cruise was a full week spent at Bora Bora, which proved to be the climax of the Beatles’ trip. When we docked at the pier our only greeter was an old native selling carvings and other souvenirs - which was a change and a relief for a Beatle. George dressed up in one of Pattie’s wigs, put on a false moustache, a straw hat, a rain jacket and grabbed a walking stick. He hopped off the Maylis onto the wharf and danced and jumped about for about ten minutes. He examined all the souvenirs, made grunting sounds and blabbered in jibberish. On board we all broke up, but the native only looked at him quizzically a few times. He was probably thinking. 'Well, I’ve seen everything now.' And actually, he had. He got a private show by a Beatle! Much of the time was passed on Motu Tabu, a gem of a miniature island. There Cyn and Pattie sunbathed and swam while John and George finished their nutty movie started in Huahine - complete with a shot of George crawling out on to a tipped-over palm, taken so that when the film was projected he would appear to be racing up the trunk like a native. Long lazy days were spent in the sun - lounging on the beaches - listening to the Beatles making gentle guitar music far into the night. During our stay at Bora Bora, I would have to take the boat over to nearby Raiatea to pick up fresh meat and ice. After about the third trip, John jokingly said to me, 'I don’t think you’re running over for provisions at all. The crew is going there looking for birds!' And he meant the non-flying kind. Sometimes we would anchor the Maylis a bit offshore when the tide was out, because the sea became so shallow. The Beatles, Cyn and Pattie could actually walk back to the boat through the beautiful blue water - a stroll they all enjoyed. That is, until “ray day.” One afternoon on their return trip, George looked down and saw a huge ray fish flapping along beneath his feet. I have never seen four people swim back to a boat so fast in my life!"
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
John, George, and Pattie at the restaurant of a hotel on their last full day in Tahiti before leaving the following day on May 23, 1964
"In the evenings we tied up at the wharf at the Hotel Polynesie, where we had dinner a few times. 'To give the cook a break,' said George. Maybe to give the passengers a break too! Cynthia is charming, gentle, and unassuming. She is spontaneous, too. One night in the Hotel Polynesie on Bora Bora, a waitress admired one of her rings, and she wanted to give it to her - and would have if John hadn’t vetoed the idea. An afternoon was spent water-skiing and George showed that he is no slouch in that department and became quite adept. In an off moment in Bora Bora George, while on water skis swung particularly wide and skimmed over the top of a submerged coral bed. There was only about six inches of water between him and the poisonous coral spikes, but luck was on his side. Later, he remarked, 'I thought I was a goner!' Later though when throwing ashore a fish he had speared one afternoon, George cut his thumb badly and it was thought that stitches would be needed to close the wound. The nurse at the local infirmary thought differently and simply dressed the deep cut. George said it was lucky that he hadn’t been cut on his guitar-fingering hand! At last we had to return to Papeete. For the return trip to Tahiti, George and Pattie decided to stay on another day in Bora Bora, then fly back to Tahiti to meet us there. George no doubt was remembering the rough day out of Papeete, two and half weeks earlier, and had no desire to risk repeating the ordeal. But the weather held perfect for the return voyage and we made the 130 miles in just over a day, John and Cyn taking their last opportunity to soak up the sun."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
"Saturday, May 23, was the Beatles last evening in French Polynesia before returning to England. We all met at the Hotel Tahiti for dinner and the Tahitian floor show, and went on to visit the spot where my adventure began, notorious Quinn’s Bar, which, said John, was “very interesting.” The next morning, Sunday (May 24), John, Cynthia, George & Pattie took a whirlwind sightseeing trip around Tahiti, stopping for a swim at Lafayette Beach, famous for its black sand, at Tiarei and lunch at the isthmus of Taravao, before returning to the boat to pack. George and Pattie especially loved the Vaipahi waterfall in Papeari which is reached by a scenic walk on a path through a magnificent garden. John and George gave the two guitars they’d bought at the beginning of the trip to Papi, the captain, and a tiny transistor radio each to Titiri and Pua as parting gifts. George handed me the receipt for the fifty rolls of film taken by Customs. 'You keep them,' he said. 'I don’t suppose we’ll have the time to use them where we’re going.' Before leaving the South Seas from the port in Tahiti, John paid us all the greatest compliment a Beatle give. He said, 'This is the only place in the whole world where we have been that we have not been hounded, mobbed or treated differently from ordinary people. I hope it always stays that way, because we want to come back again one day.' There were no wild mobs of fans at the airport; just a few local photographers. Both John and George agreed that it was indeed a unique pleasure. I watched them climb the ramp to the plane, sun-tanned, happy and relaxed. It was all over for me. A fun packed three weeks was behind us. One might think that the Beatles’ skyrocket to fame would leave its effect upon them personally. In both John and George I found two very friendly, likeable young men who put on no airs. John is extremely gifted, with a mercurial wit which bubbles forth like a fountain. George I found to be a little more reserved, his sense of humor drier. Neither of these young men had let success go to his head, but had remained modest and very human. We sailed about 300 miles, zig-zagging from one island to the next. With the Beatles, I would have gone along for nothing, just for the cruise. The plane dwindled to a silver speck in the blue Pacific sky. When it finally went from sight I stood for a few moments quite dazed... wondering whether it all really happened - or whether it was just a dream in the South Seas."
Graham Rowe, Tahiti Tour Guide, 1964
John and Cynthia on board in the airplane in Los Angeles to London after their Tahitian holiday on May 25, 1964
John, Cynthia, George, and Pattie left Tahiti on May 24, 1964. The day before, on the 23rd, they went to the Taharaa Lookout Point, enjoyed a swim at Lafayette Beach in Tiarei, and had dinner with their Maylis yacht crew and watched a Polynesian floor show.
"The holiday was fantastic, but after four weeks we'd had enough. By now we'd drifted further and further from Tahiti and didn't relish the thought of a long boat ride home, so we hopped on a flying boat and went back and spent a day around Tahiti. We then caught a Pan Am 707 coming from New Zealand which took us to Los Angeles. The four of us were the only passengers on the plane and I remember lying on the floor, sleeping, as we had so much space to ourselves. In Los Angeles we went on a bus trip that took us around Sunset Strip, Beverly Hills and all the stars' homes: 'On your left is Jayne Mansfield's home', and all that. We were only back in London for about a week before we left for Denmark, Holland, Hong Kong, and New Zealand on tour. Soon we were back about a stone's throw away from where we'd just been in Tahiti."
George Harrison
The foursome spent a day in Los Angeles to occupy the amount of time in between flights. They arrived back in England on May 26, 1964 early in the morning (8 AM). In case you're wondering about Julian's whereabouts: he was safe and sound in care of his grandmother Lillian in England. Only two (!) fans were at Heathrow Airport to greet them- there were more press photographers than fans! They were chauffered home- Pattie in her apartment she shared with Mary Bee, George in his apartment he shared with Ringo, and John and Cynthia to their own apartment. Both George and John went to bed. I don't know what Pattie and Cynthia did- maybe slept, too? Or Cynthia reunited with Julian and her mother?
George, Cynthia, Pattie, and John at Heathrow Airport in London from Los Angeles after their vacation in Tahiti on May 26, 1964
Their time in Tahiti had quite an impact on them. Some clips of George's home movies were included in Living in the Material World documentary, a few photos in the book that accompanied the documentary, curated by George's widow, Olivia. In 2009, Cynthia and Pattie were in Armenia together on behalf of their autobiographies and participated in a Q&A; they were asked about the best times/fondest times. They picked two: India (... Really, Cynthia?) and Tahiti.
"The holidays, the times we went away together."
Cynthia, 2009
"When George, John, Cynthia, and I went to Tahiti and sailed on a boat."
Pattie Boyd, 2009
